Olivier Theyskens way with moody evening gowns is undisputed - it is his daywear that has been slow to develop a true signature. This season, there are plenty of day options for his customer who wants a slim rocker look, anchored with jodhpur-like pants and cutaway jackets. Holding it all together – a terribly romantic color palette of russet, ochre, and dusty pinks and blues.

Karl Lagerfeld's Chanel show was all about the clothes – barely a bag, or jewelry in sight! New proportions and ideas were everywhere: ankle–length slim skirts with easy tops; mini-length dresses with maxi-length coats; classic tweed jackets and skirts that were slightly frayed; extremely rounded jacket shapes; harnessed evening gowns. This show certainly had enough to keep everyone talking.

There were plenty of wearable clothes in this collection, all in black and gray combinations. But let's get to the big moment – a celebration of craftsmanship and theatrical showmanship that combined the worlds of India, Queen Victoria, and the ballet. Just sit back and marvel!

Sharp tailoring. Futuristic attitude. Stefano Pilati sent out this confident collection celebrating the art of tailoring. The girls, all in the same bowl-cut hair and black lips, strode down the runway in jackets and coats falling away from the body. Full dresses had curved panels suggesting the body underneath or were spiraled around the body. Graphic black and white combinations looked absolutely stunning. This is the collection all of Paris is buzzing about.

What an impossible job Alessandra Facchinetti had – delivering the first collection since Mr. Valentino retired in January. Here were the tailored coats and suits the Val gals love in softly rounded shapes. Delicate spiraling ruffles on blouses. An easy attitude in Valentino red gowns. A fine first collection that will please the established customer and attract a new one. The most controversial component – the flat shoes!

If it's high drama you want – Christian Lacroix has something for you. The runway was full of all-black ensembles, but I was drawn to the emotional color and print ideas. Couture-inspired coats, hot pink jackets, bold prints that only Christian can dream up, and high-voltage color in coats and satin cocktail dresses. Absolutely delicious.

You can't kill a good idea, especially when Dries Van Noten is in charge. Spring's fabulous floral garden prints got the winter make over - dark backgrounds popped the color quotient sky high. But it was the multi-pattern mixes – including marbleized and foulard print ideas, sequins, and the addition of multiple furs - that really caught my eye.

Architectural embellishment is always on Albert Kriemler's mind. This season, a stripped-down side emerged at Akris as the house's signature jackets, coats and sumptuous leathers let the clean lines and modern, moody color palette do the talking. Precise tailoring, monochromatic dressing and floaty print dresses were oh so modern. And those envelope pockets – what a nifty detail.

The call of the wild! Animal prints and savage-edged pelts took to Jean Paul Gaultier's fall runway. Pelts were raw edged, sculpted, and layered over everything. When it wasn't fur deluxe, animal prints were seen on practically everything: jackets, parkas, evening gowns. One sweet note to lighten up the proceedings: delicate lace dresses peeking out from all of that fur.

Combine a little Wild West saloon, with pin-Up gals, with sexually frustrated 1950's house moms, add some hearts and tie it all up with garter belts. Rei Kawakubo took a stab at lingerie dressing as everyday dressing. Certainly not for everyone, but a pink coat with a heart cutout may be the sweetest Valentine Day gift around.

Daring and realistic dressing for the ever-evolving, modern thinking woman. Nicholas Ghesquiere sent out chic and sleek dressing ideas rooted in the history of Balenciaga. Black dresses - in patent or latex, metallic sheaths, and a variety of tops worn with slim skirts, all looked just right. Massive amounts of jewelry at the neck and both wrists will revitalize 'en suite' accessories.

Very Lady. Big hair, exaggerated eyes, and sleek cowboy hats accessorized John Galliano's fall collection all about Kennedy-era dressing. Boxy, cropped jackets, some with rolled collars (in fur), and A-line skirts were the often-repeated silhouettes. A dash of a colorful mod print, houndstooth checks, and a slim, floor-sweeping evening coat were just vintage enough.