Trademark Sicililan sizzle gave way to a pastoral and genteel countryside attitude at Dolce and Gabbana. Tweeds, curly shearling vests, mid-calf length skirts, striped Henley knits, and precision cut vested suits were the key elements for this dramatic shift in stylistic direction. The only hint of glam – an oh-so-subtle lace overlay dress.

Frida Giannini's self-proclaimed 'Gucci boho' collection was, well, free-spirited. Folkloric prints, military details, velvet, and gold passementerie details are the key details. Fringed riding boots and gold-studded booties complete the look.

No voluptuous sirens; no sizzle; no sex. Instead, Roberto Cavalli, the king of jungle prints and animal magnetism, sent out a collection that was positively prim. Sweetly embroidered eyelet dresses. Floral printed dresses and coats. And a prom-inspired dress or two. Maybe a little too sweet.

A spring breeze floated through the Marni collection. Merry colors liven up fall fashion in easy-to-wear sportswear separates. These are the pieces to mix and match with one's current wardrobe. Try a pink sleeveless coat, sheer printed tops, coats in bold patterns, furs in vivid color, or the happiest skirt around - in jonquil leather.

Lean, clean tailoring is the continuing message at the young house of 6267. Master tailors, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, continue their well-honed craft for Fall 2008. A striking palette of black and white proved most dynamic when shown in graphic prints, balanced with head-to-toe looks in chic solids. Coats, a specialty here, were spectacular. I can't even describe the evening coat embroidered with jet and sporting white feathers other than – INGENIOUS!

Lace. Lace. Lace! Lace for day. Lace for evening. Lace jackets. Lace dresses. Lace skirts. Lace coats. Structured lace. Black lace. White lace. Metallic lace. LACE!

Forget the mini skater-style skirts and concentrate on the key fall items as designed by Veronica Etro. Articulated jackets in muted brocade, sleeveless jackets layered over striped knits, shearling fur in cropped vest or aviator styles, and an easy muted paisley dress worn with a jet bead and feather-trimmed vest are of-the-moment wardrobe add ons.

It's all about the skirt. Trouser master Giorgio Armani played with skirt silhouettes on his Fall 2008 runway. Full, turned under skirts paired back to slim, tailored jackets in tweed or winter florals were just the right combination. Lean, mid-calf skirts update velvet evening jackets. Evening drama included gowns in floral prints or covered in multi-appliques – all shrouded with gypsy shawls.

Sleek, slim, dramatic. But oh so nuanced. Intricately seamed dresses that mold to the body effortlessly. Knit-like tweeds, or tweed-like knits – modern ease. Sky-high collars on coats and jackets. Fall's new metallics all burnished to a warm glow. The subtle surprise of sequins on knits. Another stellar collection from Raf Simmons.