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| CAROLINA HERRERA MONDAY, FEBRUARY 6 | ||||
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| Carolina Herrera went back in time this season, inspired by women of the late 1950s like Claudia Cardinale in "The Pink Panther," and Jeanne Moreau in "Les Liaisons Dangerous." The silhouette emphasized the waist, and kept shoulders soft and round. Daytime had hidden luxuries: simple tweed dresses came with sheared mink sleeves; double-faced ¾-sleeve jackets were worn with matching appliquéd skirts. Herrera often went for a three-tier silhouette, showing cropped boleros with supple sweaters and wide legged trousers. The decidedly feminine mood continued with lavishly embroidered silver dresses and a striking opera red silk basketweave shirt-gown with an embroidered belt. Herrera summed up the mood with a simple sentence: "This season is about playing the game of seduction without showing too much skin." | ||||
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| CYNTHIA STEFFE MONDAY, FEBRUARY 6 | ||||
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| Cynthia Steffe combined feminine detailing with menswear fabrics to create a lighthearted collection of flannel, Glen plaid, silk chiffon, and sturdy canvas. The end results suggested casual, tomboyish charm. Shorts alternated with pleated and bell-shaped skirts, while charcoal dresses were laser cut for a sharp effect. Steffe showed an assortment of knits, including chunky sweaters and popcorn cable cardigans, worn over flirty peignoir tops and shorts; trousers came in all shapes, from wide-legged to drainpipe. Her eveningwear was chic and easy to wear: there was an outstanding ivory wool embroidered dress, minutely pleated smocks, and a slip adorned with velvet ribbon insets. Although Steffe also offered military-inspired blazers with brass buttons, the feeling was always feminine thanks to the shimmering, windswept hair clasped in a knot-an allusion to the classic schoolgirl's uniform. | ||||
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| OSCAR DE LA RENTA MONDAY, FEBRUARY 6 | ||||
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| Oscar de la Renta's shows are known for their elegance and sophistication. This season, the designer went to town with his signature embellishments and luxe touches. Consider, for example, a metallic brocade jacket worn over a turtleneck and gray flannel pants, or an olive shearling mini jacket over a cashmere shell and a beautifully embroidered silk faille skirt. That was just for daytime. Cocktail hour dazzled with metallic thread dresses, gold ribbon gowns, and silver lamé suits. For evening, nothing could beat a red velvet gown with pleated taffeta trim. De la Renta's accessories also conveyed a feeling of pulled-together polish. They included flat alligator boots and clutches, satin sandals, plush fur scarves, oversized totes with gold hardware, tall suede boots, and ultra-warm long shearling gloves. | ||||
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| MARC JACOBS MONDAY, FEBRUARY 6 | ||||
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| Marc Jacobs is the man who originally made grunge cool in the early nineties by taking everyday staples like flannel jackets and waffle undershirts, and recasting them as luxurious pieces with top-quality fabrics. This season, Jacobs went back to his roots. With a mesmerizing Philip Glass soundtrack in the background, he gave a lesson in layering, showing randomly tied dresses, oversized jackets that could have been borrowed from an absent boyfriend, long glittery t-shirts, and leggings worn under slip dresses. Jackets were tied around the waist, and some skirts came with built-in belts that resembled long dangling sleeves. Jacobs capped off his tour de force with a series of shimmering dresses that looked as if they had decades-old layers peeling off, creating a feeling of aristocratic decadence. Accessories are always key at Marc Jacobs, and this season there was plenty to choose from. Highlights included large glittery woven hats, oversized knit skull caps, large totes, and legwarmers worn with conical pumps. | ||||
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